Comet Goldfish Breeding, Care, Feeding Care Guide
Hey! Are you a fish person? Then I’m sure Comet Goldfish is quite familiar to you. The Comet-tailed Goldfish or the Comet, as it is shortly called, is a single tailed fish which appears more or less similar to the common Goldfish. It varies from the common Goldfish by its uniquely long, deeply forked comet-like single tail fin. The fins of the Comet Goldfish are not so stiff like the common one; instead, they are small and smooth. They are found to have healthy eyes that are not at all bulged and flat scales without bumps.
They come in soft, soothing color combinations like white, orange, yellow, red, red with white (widely known as the Sarasa Comet) and black (commonly known as the Koi fish, a type of comet hybrid).
The Comet Goldfish scientifically termed as Carassius auratus (falls under the family Cyprinidae) first originated in the 1800s. Originally developed from the common pet Goldfish by Hugo Mulertt (you can call him the father of this species if you want) they invaded all tanks and ponds of the United States and seized the attention of fish lovers from then on. As studies quote, Comet Goldfish ranks first on the list of most preferred Goldfish varieties in the United States of America.
The Comet always seems to an energetic member of the tank it belongs to. It is still spotted loafing and racing around in the aquarium, filling the observer’s eyes with joy. According to the words of its caretakers, it is ideal for any aquariums, pools, and ponds as they don’t need much cautious care. So if you are lazy but in need of a fish, here is the one. They make your work very much more comfortable and your aquarium much livelier with vibrant colors and exciting movements.
Added to this they have an excellent life-span of 5 to 14 years and even longer in nicer habitats. I bet they are worthy of what you invest. They are often preferred over the common Goldfish as it is effortless to breed these, and also they fall under the hardy breeds. They mostly exist in peace with other mates of the tank in a playful mood. The food habits are omnivorous, and they grow up to 12 inches in size.
Comets grow considerably faster, within 3-4 years they are found to reach their maximum growth in size. They require large spacious tanks, ponds, aquariums or wherever you wish to breed them. Generally, people suggest, it is better to reproduce them in ponds or more prominent places as aquariums are usually smaller for their growth rate. People also say that Comet Goldfishes are capable of remembering their habitats and to whom they belong to.
I could sense you are getting more and more fascinated. So, if you are thinking of buying Comet-Goldfishes after having read this glimpse about them, this article is here to help you with the feeding habits, breeding, care, diseases, behaviour and lastly aquarium mates. Please get to know all the facts and keep them in mind while you breed them at your convenience.
Feeding Comet Goldfish
It is essentialto know the dos and don’ts in comet Goldfish feeding before you begin with. As we already saw, they grow incredibly fast, which directly means they must be adequately fed to their full appetite. Though Comet Goldfishes are known to be omnivorous, their main diet is comprised of a large percentage of plant fiber.
Small insects, plants, algae and all are their favorites to munch on. However, you know you are not going to feed them like what they would be eating if they were on their natural habitat – the wild, youmake them understand what home-food is like. Excellent food for Goldfishes is on a never-ending sale in the market, wait man wait, you can try all of them. However, first start with mild food like flakes, pellets, spirulina, and so on. Keep increasing the food supply every day because you certainly can’t let your lovelies starve that doesn’t sound like a kind pet master.
If you ask me how often they must be fed, the answer is, you must be feeding them on an average of two to three times per day. Their habitat is not supposed to be too cold like you dude, because they might contract digestive issues. Set your timer to 2 minutes before you start feeding them, once two minutes are gone, you are required to remove the leftovers. Removal of the excess food not only helps in maintain hygiene inside the tank, but it also forbids them from diseases such as bloating, which are effects of over-feeding.
Bloating is the most common disease as Goldfishes are crazy foodies like most of us. If you find your Goldfish slacking off in the bottom of the tank unusually as they are always found to be active, they must have developed a bloating blockage. The home-made remedy to cure bloating is to feed them peas.
In addition to the plenty of Goldfish food spread all over the market you can feed them with the following:
- Peas (shells removed)
- Small excess plants from other aquariums
- Insect larvae
- Mashed fruits
Be sure to provide them with a variety of food; their diet has a direct impact on their coloration, health, and growth rate. If you are breeding a group of Goldfishes in the same tank, there are more probabilities of them locking horns against each other competing for food while you feed. It is better to serve food from both sides of the tank at the same time.
Be careful while you pick Goldfish foods in the market. Remember these when you select Goldfish food:
- Goldfishes find it difficult to digest complex carbohydrates which means that you must avoid choosing foods with rice, wheat, corn or soy as ingredients. This will aid in eliminating fatty liver disease and swim-bladder issues.
- Also, stay away from chemical preservatives as much as possible. Always keep in mind, the food you feed decides the life span of your fish.
A balanced diet of protein, fat, minerals, and vitamins is crucial. You can also add veggie clips and grass clippings to the tank. When you set out for a vacation, make preparations for your Goldfishes to be fed with dry food by an auto-feeder.
Breeding Comet Goldfish
Male and female Comet Goldfishes exhibit physical changes when they near the breeding phase. White colored breeding tubercles are found on the male fishes while the female fishes experience an increase in size. Comets are super-social fishes which breed in groups. In natural conditions, Goldfishes produce during the spring season. You got it. Right? All you have to do is to artificially recreate the breeding conditions in your own private tank/aquarium/pond.
Before to start the breeding process, ensure the environment is hygienic and devoid of any diseases. Some breeders separate the male and female fishes a few weeks before they mate to increase their sexual interest. The best catalysts employed during breeding are Anacharis, spawning mops made out of the fiber, artificial plants, etc.
To kindle the spawning mood, initially the temperature is set low to about 60 degrees F, and it is gradually increased at a rate of 3 degrees F per day till they start spawning. You should also responsibly check the tank for parasites before spawning. Usually, spawning commences when the temperature is around 74 degrees F.
The protein-rich diet must be given during the spawning season. The male would follow the female for several days to push it against the plants. The female gets induced and lays tiny eggs, which are fertilized by the male Comet.
Two to three hours of spawning can result in over 10,000 eggs. It is suggested to remove the fishes of the tank after breeding is complete as they may eat up the eggs. The eggs laid will hatch within a week. After they become 1 inch longer, they can be added up to the tank with large fishes.
Comet Goldfish Care
It is a perfect idea to nurture Goldfishes in ponds. You can also breed them in large sized tanks (should be at least 50 gallons per fish). Don’t try to imprison them in small compartments; remember they were developed from the wild.
People say Goldfishes grow to the size of their tanks; this might be true to some extent. Scientists have found that the Growth Inhibiting Hormone (GIH) of Goldfish depends upon the size of the container. Studies also cite that stunting the growth of Goldfishes is not dangerous as many people say, because some of the world’s oldest Goldfishes appear to be undersized.
As long as you are not overcrowding the tank, they are safe. They are appropriate hardy species with active communal temperament. They proliferate incredibly well in proper breeding conditions. For starters, this one is a good one, to begin with cheerfully.
Let’s discuss the temperature of the tank now. The optimum temperature of a Goldfish tank is 65 to 70 degrees F. You could employ an aquarium heater to achieve this ideal temperature. This temperature range will help you to get rid of toxic bacteria, allow the flow of oxygen abreast managing the fluctuations in temperature.
Comet Goldfishes are more delicate, and so coldness can hurt their immune system while warmer temperatures are said to boost up their metabolism. There are also chances that Goldfishes may get temperature shocks now and then due to drastic changes in temperature. The water must not be too cold or too hot. Too hot temperature can lead to nerve damages, and too cold temperature can result in digestive and other health issues.
The quality of the water contained in the tank matters more than the quantity of water. The water must always be free of dirt and highly hygienic, though Goldfishes are known to produce hoards of waste when compared to other fishes. Take time to change the tank/aquarium water regularly. It is a good idea to add snails to your Goldfish tank as they eat up excess algae, keeping your tank tidy.
Before you leave your house for a vacation or something, make sure you have kept the tank water clean for the good of your Goldfishes. A biological filtration set up is also a basic of your fishes. You can make your Goldfish tank all the more attractive to look at by decorating it, be careful not to place any hazardous sharp objects while you do it.
Lighting is a not-so-important factor here, but you certainly want to make your aquarium livelier isn’t it? So switch to moderate to standardbrightness. You can try a gravel substrate to mimic the natural habitat of the fish effectively. They are very rarely aggressive.
Although they are freshwater fishes, sometimes they tend to be brackish, the salinity should be set below 10%, and the specific gravity must be placed under 1.002. Their pH range is 6.0 to 8.0, and their hardness range is found to be 5 to 19 dGH.
As a caretaker, your primary responsibility is to protect the Goldfishes under your care with a hygiene shield from all kinds of conditions. If infections occur, they must be appropriately treated. Otherwise, they can turn out to be fatal, and you might lose your lovelies forever. Okay, don’t whine, I’m here to help you with diseases that can occur and how they should be treated.
The first and foremost rule is to segregate the infected fish to another tank/aquarium as most of the Goldfish diseases are contagious. In case if all of your fishes are affected, then you can treat them in the same tank. You could admit them in a veterinary clinic to get proper medical help. Always adhere to the instructions given by the manufacturer of the fish. You are required to eliminate the carbon in your tank as carbon can take up all the medication you provide.
Goldfishes are prone to bacterial, fungal, protozoan, and parasitic infections. They might also contract diseases due to poor hygiene, injuries, malnutrition, and over-eating. Here are some of the conditions and infections Goldfishes are prone to.
Swim bladder disease: Swim bladder disease could be an effect of constipation, parasitic infection, physical deformities, malnutrition, bloating, etc. You can try feeding them frozen peas at the initial stage of this disease. The common symptoms are vague swimming patterns and imbalance in swimming.
Protozoan diseases: Ich, Costia, and Chilodonella are protozoan diseases found in Goldfishes. They can kill your Goldfishes if you don’t give the proper treatment as soon as possible. Ich can be easily identified as it makes your Goldfish appear as though their bodies are sprinkled with salt. Costa and Chilodonella cause cloudiness on the outer skin of the fish.
Parasitic infections: Goldfishes might get affected by parasites such as flukes (1mm flatworms with hook-like structures in their mouth), fish lice, fish mite, anchor worms, etc..
Bacterial infections: The most common bacterial infections which might affect the Goldfishes likely are Dropsy and fish tuberculosis. Dropsy affects the kidneys of the fish. Fish Tuberculosis makes the fish develop a hollow belly. There is no treatment for Fish Tuberculosis and is fatal.
Fungal infections: Certain fungi affect Goldfishes, causing ulcers and wounds.
Aquarium mates of Comet Goldfish
Comet Goldfishes live peacefully when kept in a community as long as you give them enough place to thrive. They rarely get aggressive. If you don’t feed them enough, they can eat up all the food making the other tank mates starve. It would be best if you took the responsibility to make sure all the fishes in your tank are harmonious, and no hegemony prevails.
Here are some species you can add on to your Goldfish tank:
- Gold barbs
- Dojo Loaches
- Zebra danios
- Rosy Barbs
- Apple snails
- Rubbernose plecos
- Brittlenose plecos
- Ghost shrimp
- Cherry shrimp
- White cloud mountain minnows
- Hillstream loach
- Checkerboard barb
- Scissortail Rasbora
- Giant Danio
- Bloodfin Tetra
- Black Skirt Tetra
- Wakin goldfish
- Jikin goldfish
Here are some varieties of fishes that you must not add to the Goldfish tank at any cost:
- It is good to avoid aggressive types of fish inside the Goldfish tank as you already know Goldfishes are non-aggressive in most cases.
- It would be best if you also avoided fishes that are too small as Goldfishes can eat them up.
- Comets are not tropical fishes, so they cannot be let with other tropical fishes as tropical fishes don’t go well with the warm temperature of the Goldfish tank.
You are near the end of the article. Hope you have got all the essential data and answers to all the questions in your mind. We have discussed right from the origin of the fish, scientific name, its behaviour, physical features, feeding habits, breeding, care, diseases, and lastly the aquarium mates it is compatible with. For a beginner, this fish is an excellent kick-starter, of course. We wish you all the very best from our side!